图说“四夷左衽”
黎显慧
《尚书·周书·毕命》记载:“四夷左衽”。 孔传:“言东夷、西戎、南蛮、北狄,被髮左衽之人。也就是说,除了周王朝统治中心,其他地区都流行“左衽”。可见左衽不是少数民族的服装,而是多数民族的服装。
服饰是人类特有的文化现象,广大地区流行左衽是值得关注的。我国在周朝之前尚处于神权社会,周朝统治者是武力夺权的,其祖上在宗教上没有地位。为了政权的稳定,周王朝的第一要务便是对原有的宗教进行改造,使自己的政权合法化。其中重要一环便是假借孔子之名诋毁“左衽”。这几年在大兴汉服的热潮中,左衽被再次提起,遭到贬损。“左衽”究竟是一种什么样的服装?
《史记·赵世家》云:翦发文身,错臂左衽,瓯越之民也。瓯越为古越人的一支,这里“错臂”与“左衽”连用,应该是同一种服饰上的两个特征。
“错臂”作何解?“错”有“涂饰”之意。可上文已谈到“文(纹)身”,不可能赘述。晋人孔衍解释为:“右臂左衽”,谓右袒其臂也。“错”应作斜讲,《诗·小雅·楚茨》:献酬交错。毛传:“东西为交,邪行为错。”
“邪行五里,逆行三里,至于砥柱之下。”[1]邪行即斜向行进。贾谊《新书·道术》:方直不曲谓之正,反正为邪。“邪”通“斜”。看来“错臂”为衣襟不正,往右下斜,露出右臂。
何谓“左衽”,“衽”有两种解释,一为“襟”,一为“袖子”。不同的解释,意思就全变了。从字的构型以及“错臂”的特点来看,“衽”作“袖”讲要接近一些。远古先民敬畏两腋,特别是左腋以及相邻的部位(“肋”、“肩”、“背”),用袖子或织物护住这些部位。
由于“左”在原始宗教中是与女神崇拜相关联的,进入父系社会后,开始“右”化。尽管“错臂左衽”遭到破坏,但这种服饰至今仍然可以见到。
怎么扯到意大利去了?没错,世界远古文明有明显的传播迹象,下面列举一些不同地区、不同时代、不同民族、不同宗教的服饰资料,看看曾经的“四夷左衽”。
图2[3]为古埃及蝎王二世(约公元前3250-3150年),也被称为蝎子王,上埃及第二个国王。传说中是他最早统一上下埃及的(有观点认为蝎子和那尔迈是同一个人)。这个服饰袒右,没有左袖,只是护住了左肋,也许与气候炎热有关。
图3[4]为古埃及国王的女儿的坟茔出土的石灰石绘画(约公元前2590-2565 年),画中人物左脚向前,右手描绘为左手,衣服护住左臂。袒右,尊左的特征非常明显。
图5[6]为苏美尔女性雪花石小雕像(约公元前2600-2350年)。
图6[7]为古地亚(约公元前2144–2124年),南美索不达米亚统治者。
图8[9]为阿多尼斯,希腊神话
图10[11]为先知穆罕默德,伊斯兰教,伊朗。
图14[15]为意大利佛罗伦萨圣约翰洗礼堂马赛克天花板。
图15[16]为阿斯克勒庇俄斯雕像,古希腊宗教和神话中的英雄和医学神。西班牙加泰罗尼亚,赫罗纳,安布里亚斯博物馆。
图16[17]为圣约翰浸礼小孩,西班牙。
图17[18]为僧侣石刻半身像,印度河流域文明,莫亨佐·达罗(约公元前2600-1800年)。卡拉奇国家博物馆,巴基斯坦。
图22[23]:乌鸦男孩,美洲原住民。
“错臂左衽”是原始宗教的礼服,其中蕴含着原始宗教的经典。从以上图片可以看出“左衽”曾为世界(“四夷”)人民喜爱,其魅力之大令人叹为观止。“错臂左衽”是国宝,也是世界之宝,是真正需要大力保护的。
[1] 干宝:搜神记,卷十一。
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[15] The mosaic
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[16] Asclepios
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[30] 同上。
[31] Adorable. She's even wearing traditional
clothing. http://littlerosetrove.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-to-be-thai-part-i.html.